PRESERVING heritage has always been a key component of Penang’s pusuit of safeguarding its historical roots.
The state is filled with an unending list of food choices, from big to small restaurants, hawker stalls, food trucks, street food and many others.
It is undeniable that given the rapid advancement of technology that we are currently experiencing in this modern day, preserving heritage is becoming a challenge for many business pioneers.
Despite this, Penang Hill Kacang Putih, a famous stall selling Indian snacks on Penang Hill, continues to thrive under its third-generation operator, Sathivel Ayaro.
Selling an array of snacks such as murukku, ‘pani puri’, chickpeas special masala, corn special masala, ‘bhel puri’, cheese corn, peppercorn and sweet corn, the business was first started by Sathivel’s grandfather in 1960.
“Being the youngest among 12 siblings, I was the only one who was interested in continuing my grandfather’s legacy.
“I took over this business in 1992. At that time, I was only 21, and I thought it would be nice to protect this heritage of ours because kacang putih is generally loved by a lot of people.
“Just like kacang putih, there are many other types of street foods in Penang that must be protected so that we can tell stories that not many places can, especially when we are globally renowned as a food haven.
“Some good examples would be ice kacang, popiah, traditional nasi lemak, dodol, vada and many others,” Sathivel told Buletin Mutiara during an exclusive interview at Penang Hill on July 5.
Sathivel, 50, is hopeful that his son, who is currently enrolled in a culinary arts programme, will be interested in continuing this precious legacy.
What makes the kacang putih stall an instant favourite among the residents, and local and international tourists are the timeless recipes handed down through the generations.
“In my grandfather’s time, there were only ‘kacang kuda’ and ‘kacang putih’, and when my dad took over in 1984, we started to make a variety of choices.
“Our famous dish is the chickpeas special masala. It is a combination of kacang kuda, onions and Indian spices,” he added.
During the interview, Sathivel also highlighted a memorable journey that the business has witnessed, having seen four chief ministers govern the state: the late Tun Dr Lim Chong Eu, Tan Sri Dr Koh Tsu Koon, Lim Guan Eng and current caretaker Chief Minister Chow Kon Yeow.
“The Penang government has been very supportive of my business and other stalls operating at the food court here, especially during the time of the Covid-19 pandemic.
“We were badly hit because international and domestic travellers were barred from travelling.
“Due to some good souls, I was able to still survive during the Covid era because many of them encouraged me to adapt to delivery services, which helped me a lot during the challenging times.
“Fortunately, we have since recovered and things are returning to normal,” he added.
Sathivel’s dedication to preserving heritage through the family kacang putih stall is not only a testament to Penang’s rich culinary traditions but also an inspiration for others to carry forward their cultural legacies.
Story by Kevin Vimal
Pix by Muhamad Amir Irsyad Omar