IN A quiet corner of Balik Pulau, where time seems to slow, and conversations linger a little longer, a humble Hainanese kopitiam continues to serve more than just coffee and toast. It serves as a repository of memories, friendship, and a living legacy that has endured since 1947.
For Neill Foo, the kopitiam is not just a family business; it is a piece of his grandfather’s dream that he now carries forward, one cup at a time.
“Actually, the shop is run by my grandfather, and then passed to my father. I am the third generation,” he shared with a smile.
The story of the coffeeshop began when Neill’s grandfather took over the premises nearly eight decades ago. What started as a simple food-and-drinks business has grown into a nostalgic gathering spot deeply rooted in community spirit.
“It was in 1947 when my grandfather took over the shop, and ever since then, the family has continued the business,” Neill said.
Today, the kopitiam still keeps its traditional charm, while quietly evolving with the times.
Interestingly, Neill never planned to return to the shop full-time. For years, he worked as a tourist guide until the Covid-19 pandemic changed everything.
“I came back because of Covid. Tourism stopped; there were no tours to do. So, for two years, I stayed here and helped at the shop,” he said.
What began as a temporary move slowly turned into something more meaningful.
“All my friends, especially cyclists, knew me from cycling expeditions. Then, they started coming to the shop. I put some instruments here for them to play, and slowly it built up.”
Today, many customers have become regulars and even friends.
“Most of the customers later become friends. Some of them hang around here almost daily,” he added warmly.
Unlike the kopitiam of the past, Neill has introduced a unique twist, with live music and jamming sessions.
“Last time, they only did food and drinks. The jamming started during my time,” he explained.
Musicians, retirees and cyclists now gather at the shop, turning it into an informal community hub.
“One uncle used to play at the Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Resort and Hotel. After he retired, he started cycling here and started hanging around more often. Even when the shop is not open, he still comes here, drinks tea and chats,” Foo added.
The kopitiam has become a space where friendships are brewed as naturally as coffee.
Despite the challenges of running a small-town kopitiam, Neill remains committed to preserving traditional flavours.
“All the kaya and jam are homemade,” he said proudly.
He even learned a scone recipe from a British friend’s wife.
“She taught me the recipe. During the off-season, I had nothing to do, so now at least I have something extra to offer.”
Still, he further added that sustaining the business is not easy.
“Here we have no offices or factories. We depend mostly on tourists. Normally, it is quiet, just barely enough to cover,” he admitted.
Balik Pulau itself has changed dramatically over the years, with younger generations moving away and traditional livelihoods fading.
“Most of the fishermen now do offshore fishing, and many youngsters have moved out. From about 200 houses, maybe only a small percentage are still occupied,” he said.
As the village evolves, the kopitiam remains one of the few links to its past.
When asked about the future of the business, Neill’s answer was simple and heartfelt.
“As long as I can do, I will continue,” he said.
A self-proclaimed “kampung boy,” he chooses the quiet life of Balik Pulau over city living.
“I have another house in Sungai Ara, but I prefer staying here,” he said.
In an era where many heritage businesses are disappearing, Neill’s Kopitiam remains a gentle reminder that tradition can survive, sustained by passion, resilience, and the simple joy of sharing coffee with friends.
And for now, as long as the kettle keeps boiling and the guitars keep playing, the story of this 1947 kopitiam continues to unfold.
Story by Kevin Vimal
Pix by Siew Chia En