IN the Peranakan culture, the kebaya outfit is often associated with the community as it showcases their identity and heritage.
The kebaya itself is an eclectic combination of the finest European fabrics paired with multi-coloured Javanese batik sarongs.
To complete the entire ensemble, fine accessories like a ‘cucuk sanggul’ (hairpin), a silver belt for securing the sarong, and a pair of beaded slippers (known as ‘kasut manek’) adorn the wearer, and hence provide a distinct look synonymous with the Nyonyas.
In an exclusive interview with Buletin Mutiara recently, Adrian Cheah, who is a Baba from the Peranakan community, offered some fascinating insights into the uniqueness of the attire.
According to him, a clear observation reveals that the creativity element lies in the heart of Peranakan community, assimilating and welcoming all that is beautiful around them.
“The intricate embroidery on the kebaya, often crafted by the Nyonyas themselves in the good old days, showed the level of craftsmanship and skill they possessed.
“To me, these intrinsic qualities are important in understanding the values they hold and should not be glossed over. Their identities lie within themselves.
“When I was young, I was constantly reminded to sit up straight and not to slouch. Many researches tell us the benefits of good posture, from breathing to digestion, and from blood circulation to health.
“Likewise for Nyonyas, posture was important back then because they wanted to look taller and give a better impression, and they did not want to crease their beautiful kebayas,” said Cheah, who is the photographer and designer for the ‘Never Forgetting Balik Pulau’ book.
He said to complete a kebaya is a painstaking process and may take weeks, often featuring intricate motifs of flowers, birds and butterflies.
Since kebaya is brilliantly designed, nothing much is ever revealed as it has long sleeves, and a traditional outfit.
The translucent kebaya is usually worn over a camisole and secured at the front by a set of three interlinked brooches known as a ‘keronsang’ in Malay.
“Besides that, the kebaya is a garment masterpiece, always matched with a beautiful sarong.
“Do you even know that in Penang, the nyonya kebaya was known as Puah Th’ng Tay?”
Cheah added that relevant bodies in the government, private, and public enterprises could have a role to play in promoting kebaya to appreciate its beauty and craftsmanship as well as to encourage more artisanship in the field.
“The Chinese Peranakan community in Penang is always celebrating its rich cultural heritage, wearing the kebaya being among the practices.
“Since wearing kebaya is not reserved to only the Nyonyas, I would highly encourage that it be welcomed by all, enabling the appeal to widened.
“A Nyonya will also look good in a sari, and let us celebrate all that is beautiful around us and not compartmentalise and push everything into labelled boxes.
“If something is beautiful, easily available and affordable, more women are likely to appreciate and wear it,” he said.
Story by Edmund Lee
Pix courtesy of Adrian Cheah